Many people out there have taken advantage of Westbrook Cycle’s rather stunning offer of a Scott Foil HMX Carbon Frame from 2013, along with DI2 Ultegra electric groupset, for £1399 (use FOILDI2 voucher code).  Many more are tempted, but are asking the question “But how difficult is it to build?”

Not very, as long as you take your time.

First things first, removing the bottom bracket.  This is a Shimano BB86 press fit bb, fitted in the factory, and needs to be removed to fit the DI2 wiring.  Either pay a local bike shop with the right tool to press this out, or be careful with a blunt bit of metal, and a hammer.  Don’t use a rubber mallet, you want to remove this with a sharp tap.  Work your way around the bearing and ease it out.

DI2 cabling: the short pair (350mm) are for your handlebars to junction box A, the longest (1000mm) is from the A to B which lives in the downtube, the shortest (300) is for the front derailleur, and the other two depend on which you feel.  I used the 600mm for rear derailleur, 700 for the seatpost battery.  Grommets fit after the cables are installed.  You have round grommets and oval grommets.  I used oval on the top entry of the downtube, round everywhere else.

Rear brake cabling: there’s 2 plugs that you need to fit in the frame.  If you need to remove the cable and don’t use a pull wire, it’s easy to guide wires from back to front as long as you’ve not fitted forks.  You need to cut the brake cable outer.  I used a hacksaw to prevent crushing.  Make sure you can still turn your handlebars fully in both directions before cutting!

Front derailleur: use the carbon washer, not the metal washer from the derailleur.  This has a thicker edge and thinner edge: fit the thicker edge to the outside, then you can trim the derailleur to be parallel by using the support grub screw.

Forks: Remove the black top cap and screw completely, fit the plug into the top of the tube, then use an allen key to tighten the plug to appropriate torque.   Once that’s done, fit the screw and top cap for safe keeping.  The headset supplied (Ritchey Logic Zero WCS PF headset) uses bearings that, despite the “PF” name, are just drop in.  There is no extra crown race needed on top of the forks.  The manual states a maximum of 40mm under and 5mm on top of the stem, so that’s what I had the shop cut down to.

Cutting the steerer tube: I paid my LBS to do this with their cutting guide and carbon blade.  Using the above stack, I measured from the top of tube to the top of the spacers, then added 3mm to the amount needed to be removed, allowing some preload to be achieved.

Refitting the bottom bracket: 50cm of threaded rod, and nuts and washers, basically do the same job as the cheaper Park Tool.  Ensure everything is straight and go gently.

There’s no real “gotchas” here, just take your time.  Pics to follow.